Flooring Installation Guide

How To Install Laminate Flooring

Measure the Laminate Flooring

To find out how many laminate boards are required to cover a certain room, it is necessary to get a correct measurement of the floor space of the room. The combined area of the laminate boards should be about 10% more than the area of the room to allow for wastage.

Acclimatise your new Laminate Flooring

This is a very important aspect of installation which will make a huge difference to your flooring. Fortunately it is not difficult to acclimatise your laminate floor.

For at least 48 hours before your laminate floor is laid, the product should be kept in the room where it is going to be installed, in the boxes it arrived in.

A constant temperature must be maintained before, during the three days after the installation takes place. This process helps to stabilise moisture levels as naturally as possible because laminate flooring can expand and contract slightly with changing temperature and humidity. If this is allowed to happen then gaps or peaks can appear, ruining the look of your floor.

Preparing to fit Laminate Flooring

Check that the subfloor is in good condition. Use a spirit level to check all areas of the subfloor are suitable to accommodate your new laminate floor. A surface that is slightly uneven may be sanded down, this will ensure the new laminate floor will lay nice and flat.

Next you should la the underlay. This step van vary depending on which type of subfloor you have.

I you are installing over a concrete or solid subfloor it would be advisable to use an underlay with a builtin damp-proof membrane. Tape the underlay at the joints using 'Gaffa' tape or similar and run the underlay at least 5cm up the perimeter walls.

If it's a wooden subfloor, you won't have to use an underlay incorporating a damp-proof  membrane, tape it together or run it up the wall.

For installation over underfloor heating ensure you have an underlay that distributes evenly across the surface. These are recommendations, but you should always follow the manufacturers guidelines when choosing an underlay.

Cutting around Toilets, Radiator pipes, Bullnose step and curves

In an ideal world, the easiest way to fit laminate flooring in a toilet is to remove the sanitary ware. As this isn't always possible we have set out a few guidelines to make life a bit easier when fitting around toilet pans and wash basins. 

Always make some kind of mark on our laminate before you begin cutting. This is the best way to prevent mistakes. Use a pencil or chalk to mark so it's not noticeable.

Be sure you have the correct tools to use,Chop saws are good for repetitive cuts, especially on the short end of the board. These tools create a lot of dust so it's best that you use it outdoors. Circular saws are good for cutting long straight lines, jigsaws are good for cutting laminate around curved structures and pipes.

If you are using a power saw, remember that laminate chips easily. To prevent chipping, you have to use a saw with fine teeth and be sure to cut downwards into the laminate boards, not upwards as is typical with saw blades, as you would if you are using other materials such as wood. If you are using a simple hand saw, cut the laminate with the face side up, but only use pressure on the downward strokes. When pulling back up, don't let the saw come into contact with the uncut section of the line.

If you are installing the laminate around pipes, and need to cut to fit them, you should use a jigsaw to actually notch the planks. Leave enough expansion gap so there is plenty of room for the pipe.

How to fit Laminate Flooring

Most laminate floors are Click-system types and knowing how to fit laminate flooring like this is far from rocket science. The planks will fit together like jigsaw pieces. The key is not is not to add too much or in fact any adhesive as a good Click-system does not require any.

The laminate planks should be laid starting from the perimeter of the area. Make sure that the groove side of the planks face the wall. The first plank on the first row should be a full board, and the second row a 2/3 plank. The  first plank on the third row should be a 1/3 plank, and the fourth row starts again with a full plank. This pattern will continue until the entire floor is covered with laminate. The end joints of one row should be about 20cm away from the joint of the next row.

Even if the new floor has bee properly acclimatised it will still experience normal expansion and contraction as humidity and temperature levels vary. This means that there should be a small gap between 6-10mm between the edge of the room and the laminate to allow for this.

To maintain this gap during installation spacers are provided in the installation Kits ( purchased separately). After you have installed the floor you can cover this expansion gap with scotia/beading or new skirting boards.The laminate flooring should be finished at doorways unless where the laminate flooring is to run continuous. A full range of matching scotia beading and door profiles are available.

Provided these guidelines are followed and the manufacturer's instructions studied there should be no problem installing your laminate floor and enjoying it for many years thereafter.

How to Install Glue-Down Engineered wood Flooring 

A little Pre-planning

Before you buy the hardwood engineered planks, measure the floor area accurately to determine how many planks are required.

Use a chalk to demarcate the floor according to the plank's dimensions so that these are aligned perfectly straight post installation.

To acclimatise the planks, let the boxes rest flat for a few days before.

Prepare the Subfloor

Be sure to prepare the Subfloor thoroughly. Remove all debris, dirt, particles, remaining wax or adhesive. Fill up all cracks and gaps so that the Subfloor is perfectly even and smooth. Mop it thoroughly and allow it to dry completely before the installation process.

Install your Glue-Down Engineered Wood Floor

Insert spacers along the edges of the wall to create expansion gaps while laying the first row. Begin by installing the first row of planks against the longest wall in your room.

It is important that the first row is perfectly aligned in a straight line. This is the only way to ensure that the successive rows are straight.

Pour just enough glue on the subfloor to cover two or three planks at a time. Use a urethane-based adhesive that works best that feature tongues and grooves. Hold a trowel at a 45-degree angle and spread the glue evenly on the subfloor.

Attach the planks together leaving a little space in-between for natural expansion and contraction. Start from the left side of the room and work your way gradually to the opposite wall.

Once the planks in the first row are attached, position the grooved side towards the wall. Now press gently but firmly onto the glued surface for strong adhesion. Move the trowel backward and forward several times over the planks so they are set evenly. This also ensures there are no air-pockets trapped underneath.

Continue this way until you reach the last row. If the planks for the last row are too wide, cut them to size  to ensure the floor fits snugly against the wall. Use a pry bar to install the last row correctly and pull the planks into place. Allow the floor to set for at least 24 hours before using.

How to Install Floating Engineered Wood Flooring

Things to Consider

The entire installation process takes at least two to three days. Moreover, you can't just on your new floors immediately. So plan your movements accordingly.

Measure the floor area accurately. Divide the total area of the floor by the dimensions of the planks to know how many you will need. This will also give an idea of how many rolls of foam underlay you'll need.

The planks also have to be acclimatised to the room's temperature for at least 48 hours prior to installation. Just let the boxes lie flat (not staggered or standing) in the middle of your room for 48 hours.

Prepare the Subfloor

It is vital that the Subfloor i.e. the pre-existing floor is completely level, smooth and free from cracks and gaps. Remove all dirt and debris and mop it with a neutral cleaning solution. Let the subfloor dry out completely.

Roll out you foam underlay and place it in a single layer across the subfloor. Size it accordingly and snip off any extra edges using a utility knife. Attach the seams of the subfloor and underlay together using duct tape.

Install the Engineered Wood Planks

Installing the planks along the longest wall has the best effect. Remember that the last row should be at least 1.5" wide. If need be, trip the planks to be used in the first row to ensure that the final row of planks is wide enough.

Install the first row by applying the glue along the edges of the planks and arrange them with the tongue positioned towards the centre of the room.

Install successive rows from left to right. Apply the glue on the seams of the tongues and the grooves to connect them firmly and place the new planks carefully on the subfloor. Wipe off any surplus glue immediately.

Do not join the planks too tightly. Leave a little space for natural expansion and contraction. Complete the installation process and nail the floor to the walls and NOT Subfloor. Allow the new floor to set for at least 24 hours before use.

How to install Click-Lock Vinyl Flooring

Prepare the subfloor

For a smooth installation, it is important to prepare the Subfloor. A clean, dry and even Subfloor ensures that the vinyl planks are laid evenly without any undulations or air-pockets beneath.

Remove all traces of dust, dirt or other particles from the subfloor using a neutral cleaning liquid. Allow the subfloor to dry completely. In case the existing Subfloor is too glossy, a primer is effective in ensuring a firm adhesion to the subfloor. Be sure to fill up all cracks and gaps.

Prepare the Click-Lock Vinyl Planks

Allow the Planks to acclimatise to a temperature of 15 degrees Celsius for at least a day before installation. Measure the space carefully to determine the exact width of the last row of planks to be installed.

In case the width of these planks is less than 50mm, you will need to adjust the width of the last row of planks accordingly.

Keep at least 5mm space on all four sides and around fixtures such as pipes to allow for normal expansion and contraction of the Planks.

Install Your Click-Lock Vinyl Floor

In general, vinyl flooring planks are installed along the direction of the primary light source. However, in case the space is narrow such as a corridor, install the Planks along the length of the space irrespective of direction of the light.

Using a chalk, draw a line to mark the starting point so that the floor is perfectly aligned post installation. Click and join the planks and start installing them from the left side and gradually move towards the right side. Remember that the tongue of the first row of planks will always face the starting wall. Use spacers between the edge of the wall and the planks.

In case you need to trim the last plank, use a utility knife to score the surface and bend it down to cut off the extra edge. It is crucial that the first two rows are aligned perfectly straight as this will affect the alignment of the successive rows.